Amboseli and Tsavo
Africa's largest elephants in the shadow of Kilimanjaro, and the vast red wilderness that makes up Kenya's biggest national park.
The elephant country of Kenya.
Amboseli and Tsavo are the two parks that define Kenya for those who want something more than the Mara crowd. Amboseli is small, intensely beautiful and home to some of Africa's most studied elephant populations. Tsavo, divided into East and West by the Nairobi-Mombasa highway, is immense and still largely wild. Together they account for over 21,000 square kilometres of protected land, from the base of Kilimanjaro to the edge of the Taita Hills.
Both parks are accessible from Mombasa, making them the natural choice for travellers based on the coast who want to combine beach and bush. A Diani or Watamu stay followed by an Amboseli and Tsavo circuit is one of the classic Kenya itineraries, and one Emrays arranges frequently.
"Amboseli's elephants are the most studied in the world. Some researchers have followed the same families for 50 years."
Amboseli National Park.
At 392 square kilometres, Amboseli is one of Kenya's smaller parks, but it is also one of the most photographed. The reason is simple: elephant herds moving across open floodplain with the full white-capped mass of Kilimanjaro as a backdrop. On a clear morning, the mountain fills the southern sky. The elephants here are habituated and relaxed, allowing the kind of close, unhurried observation that is rare elsewhere.
Amboseli Elephant Herds
The Amboseli elephant population has been monitored by researchers since 1972. Individual elephants are named and their family histories documented. Herds move daily between the swamps fed by Kilimanjaro's snowmelt and the open floodplain.
Kilimanjaro Backdrop
Africa's highest peak sits 50 kilometres south in Tanzania. It is visible from Amboseli on clear mornings before the cloud builds. This view, elephant in foreground and snowed peak behind, is the most reproduced wildlife photograph in history.
Observation Hill
A low volcanic hill in the centre of the park with a 360-degree panorama. At dawn, before the dust rises, you can see elephant herds moving across the floodplain below while zebra graze in the open grass to the north.
Swamp and Birdlife
Amboseli's swamps, fed by underground water from Kilimanjaro, support a remarkable concentration of waterbirds: pelican, spoonbill, African fish eagle, saddle-billed stork. Over 400 bird species have been recorded in the park.
Tsavo East and West.
Kenya's largest national park is split into Tsavo East and Tsavo West by the Nairobi-Mombasa road. Together they cover over 21,000 square kilometres of semi-arid bush, lava plains and riverine forest. Tsavo is wilder, emptier and more demanding than Amboseli or the Mara, but the rewards match it.
The Red Elephants
Tsavo's elephants are coated in the park's red laterite soil, which they use for dust baths to regulate temperature and deter insects. The result is one of the most distinctive wildlife sights in Africa: elephant the colour of rust, moving through red-dust savanna.
Mzima Springs
A series of natural springs in Tsavo West, fed by underground water from the Chyulu Hills. Crystal-clear pools support hippo, crocodile and hundreds of barbel fish. An underwater viewing chamber lets you watch the hippos from below the waterline.
Shetani Lava Fields
A vast black lava field in Tsavo West, formed 200 years ago in a volcanic eruption the Maasai called "Shetani" (the devil). The lava surface stretches for 50 square kilometres and is still largely uninhabited, creating an otherworldly landscape.
Notable wildlife of Tsavo.
Lions of Tsavo
Tsavo lions are famous in history and in science. The "Tsavo Man-Eaters" that halted construction of the Uganda Railway in 1898 were Tsavo lions. Many Tsavo males are maneless, a trait that may be an adaptation to the dense thornscrub terrain.
Reticulated Giraffe
Tsavo holds reticulated giraffe, with their distinctive large, clean-edged polygon patches. Less common than the Masai giraffe of the Mara, they are one of nine recognised giraffe subspecies, all classified as vulnerable by the IUCN.
Greater Kudu
The most magnificent of the spiral-horned antelopes. Males carry massive corkscrew horns that can reach 1.8 metres in length. Tsavo West is one of the best places in Kenya to see kudu in the riverine thickets and rocky slopes.
Baobab Trees
Not wildlife, but the defining visual of Tsavo. Ancient baobab trees dot the landscape across both parks, their swollen trunks storing thousands of litres of water. Some are estimated at over 2,000 years old. Elephants strip their bark for moisture in dry season.
Best time for Amboseli and Tsavo.
Both parks are accessible year-round. The two dry seasons offer the best game-viewing conditions.
| Period | Conditions | Best for | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jun - Oct Long dry season |
Clear skies, Kilimanjaro visible most mornings, wildlife concentrates at water sources | Elephant viewing, Kilimanjaro photography, all round game drives | Peak |
| Jan - Feb Short dry season |
Hot and dry. Excellent visibility. Fewer visitors than mid-year | Photography, uncrowded game drives, strong value rates | Good |
| Nov - Dec Short rains |
Brief showers, green flush, significantly reduced visitor numbers | Birdwatching, lush Amboseli landscapes, budget travel | Shoulder |
| Mar - May Long rains |
Heavier rains. Some Tsavo tracks impassable. Lowest prices of the year | Photography of green Tsavo, private feel, very low rates | Low |
Amboseli and Tsavo tours.
Practical information.
Getting there
- Amboseli: 4 to 5 hours by road from Nairobi. Fly into Amboseli airstrip for a faster option
- Tsavo East: 4 hours from Mombasa via Voi Gate. Ideal for coast-based travellers
- Tsavo West: 4 hours from Mombasa or 5 from Nairobi via Mtito Andei Gate
- Combined Amboseli plus Tsavo circuits are commonly run over 4 to 6 nights
- SGR train Mombasa to Nairobi overnight, then road to Amboseli or Tsavo
What to pack
- Tsavo is dusty. Pack a light scarf or buff for open vehicle drives
- Amboseli can be extremely cold at dawn from June to September
- Sunscreen is essential - Amboseli floodplain reflects a lot of light
- Neutral-toned clothing as with all safaris
- Comfortable sandals for lodge time, closed shoes for any walks
- Cash in Kenyan shillings for tipping guides and camp staff
Elephants under Kilimanjaro.
Tell us your dates and whether you are coming from Nairobi or the coast. We will build the Amboseli-Tsavo circuit that fits your time and budget.